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自己的第一次摩托车骑行,就是前往舟山。那是在一个寒冷的秋冬时节,骑着一辆两冲程的本田小绵羊,沿着钱塘江一路顺流而下,走走停停,从杭州骑到宁波白峰轮渡码头,已是夜里十点以后。
这一次,是夏天正要结尾的九月中旬。到白峰码头,天又入黑,不过末班轮渡是晚上8点10分,早了半个小时,到的还算从容。夜色中,一个小时的轮渡时间悠长如梦。众所周知,舟山近海是一片浑黄,不过月光下,海是一种迷人的黑色,闪烁着如梦的波光。
这一次,我带着账篷,在海边露营,看日出,是此行的一个心愿。我在地图上寻找露营的地点,看到月岙村这个名字,觉得很应景。于是在鸭蛋山上岸后,穿过舟山本岛,又穿过白沙岛,在一段漆黑无人的小路里拐弯抹角,终于抵达这一天的目的地。
这里的月亮比在轮渡时更加明亮,远处的山影和地平线清晰可见,黑色的海面像酒,(空气里)散发着熏臭的鱼腥味。我在探出海面的一块平台上搭好帐篷,旁边是几艘渔船,像喝醉般随浪摇摆。为了制造一点仪式感,我在月光奏鸣曲中昏昏睡去。
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