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多云转晴/杭州
杭州地铁比上海的要嘈杂些。在上海乘客用降噪耳机将自己与外界隔开,必须沟通时也多使用文字,是不愿发出声音来打破好不容易织造的隔膜的。杭州不然,我总看到他们将手机靠在脸颊侧——用通话来处理工作或生活的琐碎,不大会有隐私顾虑的。
十点半到古荡古南,寻处民居社区的户外摊位吃了份炒粉,民居依山而建,路边停了处登高车,几个工人站上面持着油锯把悬铃木修成了光秃秃的样子,街道口坐着许多提篮子从乡下来卖菜的老人,像John Berger 描述的塞尔维亚的菜场般——小城镇舒缓的模样。
由西溪谷上老和山,遍布许多底部用石头堆砌的坟,坟茔大多荒了,周身长满灌木,观其石碑约莫百年历史,若其上镶嵌着如法扬肖像般照片会令人触目。
石阶多是新建的,两侧还有许多古道,借着杂石和树根向上蜿蜒着,遇到身穿浅蓝色卡其布中山装的老人手持竹拐棍避开石阶沿着古道行进,我且跟着他。
过秦亭山、将军山、美女山、灵峰山、桃源岭、北高峰,中间没做停留休憩,由法华寺后门进大雄宝殿,自高向低逛了一遍,僧徒多作俗世状,不喜。下山至东岳村,村貌倒是很好的,像北欧小镇多些,若以后在杭州暂居可来此处的。
2023-04-20
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