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这组图片摄于日本京都的东本愿寺,御影堂前。
东本愿寺是400年前的产物,在京都的老牌寺庙里地位颇重,寺内曾有个建在地底的招待所,平日接待僧侣所用。
我从未见过建在地下的酒店,自带疑问:建在地底不会潮湿阴暗不宜久居吗?更何况东本愿寺名声在外,也不是小地方,为什么要把好好的招待所为什么要建在地底呢?
原因有二。首先,东本愿寺是位四百年德高望重的老先生,建筑师思虑再三,觉得不能在老人家前厅大兴土木,只能"曲线救国",其次地底幽深黑暗,再在抬头的地面处建一扇弧形的顶窗,直接透过地面看到天空,深意是僧侣在地底苦无天日地修行,但始终有微弱的光亮作为信念支撑。
真实一个醍醐灌顶的答案,建筑设计师大概是个不折不扣的鬼才吧。
出发前,我对京都所有的欲罢不能都可以用乃竹的"极端"和"矛盾"两词概括,亲身体验后有了新的体悟,京都古典与现代的矛盾对立、精雕细琢的极致美学,犹如太极图里阴阳和合的道场,它介乎极致与矛盾之间——用"平衡"二字来安放更加合身。于是,东本愿寺也成了我京都之行顿悟最久的一站。
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